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![]() The zones have prescribed resistances that the panel monitor-with your panel, it's 3.3K Ohms for single zone, and you could probably get away with a 3K or 3.6K if that's all you have-but switch it out for the proper resistor as soon as you can. (That's a lot of other stories that I'm happy to drone on about if anybody's interested.) Alarm systems have to have a certain tolerance, because the environments of the various zone loops can sometimes throw a lot of transient fluctuations at them. This isn't a flaw in system design, IMHO. That panel-it was an Ademco-tolerated a 50% higher-than-prescribed resistance on its fire zone for TWO! DAYS! before it decided to object to it. I don't usually tell 'war stories' except when talking shop with other techs, but I want to impress you with how tolerant a system panel can be about EOLRs-until it isn't. For awhile I kept the 3K resistor for a souvenir. I found the cause pretty quickly, and I had to haul that tall stepladder up those steps, set it as stable as I could get it on that narrow landing (which wasn't wide enough to open it fully), and climb up it with no buddy to steady it (installers tend to work in pairs service techs usually work alone.) Fortunately, I climbed a lot of trees as a kid and did some sport climbing when I was older heights don't bother me, and I'm pretty steady on a ladder, even when I have to have my head craning up looking at the smoke sensor I'm working with. The reason I know about that job is that I'm the service tech who was sent there three days later to figure out why the system had had a false Fire Trouble Alert in the middle of the night before, and now the fire zone wouldn't reset, even though there was no smoke. The Keypad showed no trouble on the Fire Zone! I.e., it " worked." The new panel tolerated it. He better be someone you trust.īut-oh, joy!- When they connected the fire zone with the existing 3K resistor and powered up the panel, it indicated that it was 'happy' and Ready to Arm (green light). #GE NETWORX NX 8V2 TROUBLESHOOTING UPGRADE#The rest of the upgrade had been in comfy eye-level conditions,but switching out the Fire EOLR would entail wrestling a tall (15') stepladder up 3 flights of stairs, setting it up on a precarious landing (if you've ever stood on a tall stepladder where you're looking down 3 stories, you'll know what I mean.) and having your buddy steady the ladder while you do the switch. It would be worth prison time for me to put it at the panel.īut switching out the 3K on the fire zone for a 2K would have cost the installers a lot of extra time and effort, because the smoke sensor at the end of the line was high above a narrow landing three flights up a staircase. #GE NETWORX NX 8V2 TROUBLESHOOTING INSTALL#That is not disputed among techs, and it's illegal according to Fire Code to install it anywhere else. So the installers switched out the Control Panel and keypads, including switching out the 3K resistors at the Panel for 2K resistors, as prescribed-but the reason I mentioned the burg EOLRs at the panel is that Fire Zone EOLRs NEVER go anywhere except at the End of the Line-the last fire sensor (smoke sensor or heat sensor) on the fire loop. (There is difference of opinion in the alarm tech community whether this is acceptable practice, but I'm in the camp of installing home alarm burg zone EOLRs at the panel, for reasons I'll discuss with anybody who's interested but it's not relevant here.) Now, it's not unusual for the "EOLRs"-i.e., the "End of Line Resistors" that the manufacturer says should go at the end of the zone loop-it's not unusual to install the burg(lary) zone EOLRs on the Panel, the main PCB board, at the beginning of the zone loop. One memorable example of this comes to mind, from years ago: A couple of installers upgraded a home system from one panel that used 3K zone loop end-of-line resistors (EOLRs), to a panel that used 2K EOLRs. A zone can "work" when its resistance is 'way more or less than it's supposed to be, and manufacturers won't tell you what the tolerances may be, and for good reason: Installers aren't supposed to be trying to see how much they can get away with, they're supposed to be installing the resistance values prescribed in the manuals. I don't know what tests you ran to ensure it's "working", but I assume everything "worked" as expected-but it doesn't matter. There's a reason it directs you to use 3.74K resistors. #GE NETWORX NX 8V2 TROUBLESHOOTING MANUAL#Follow the Installation Manual instructions, and put 3.74K resistors on the lower zones. ![]()
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